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What Everyone Needs to Know BEFORE Getting a
Dog
(Part Two)
By Kathy Edstrom and Linda Arndt, DVM
Getting a dog is
a big decision and is one that should not be taken lightly. In part
one we discussed the responsibilities of bringing a dog
into your household. We would like to continue discussing this very
important subject by reviewing the pros and cons of getting an older
dog versus getting a puppy and where and how to obtain a puppy or
dog of your choice.
Adult Dog
versus Puppy
An older dog versus a
puppy - both of these choices have pros and cons attached to them.
Since each family is different, you can create a chart with notes
pertaining to each option as you think about them in terms of your
family. We’ve started the list for you as an example of this thought
process. During your research you can add to this list as pros and
cons come to mind.
Pros of getting
an older dog:
Cons of getting
an older dog:
-
May have a
pre-existing health issues
-
May have some
undesirable behaviors/habits. It takes A LOT of time and
effort to modify old behaviors/habits and sometimes those
behaviors/habits can not be completely turned around.
-
May not be as
active as you'd like your dog to be
Pros of getting a
puppy:
-
Ability to bond
with your pup at an early age
-
Can train early
and avoid the formation of undesirable behaviors/habits
-
Opportunity to
watch pup mature
Cons of getting a
puppy:
-
Not
housebroken
-
Training takes A
LOT of time and effort
-
Pups require
constant supervision because this is the time in their life when
they have a tremendous amount of energy to expend and the need to
investigate every nook and corner of the environment around
them.
-
They are
considered pups or adolescent dogs til approximately two and a
half years of age
Where to Get Your
Puppy/Dog
It is important to research breeders when
looking to adopt a pure bred dog. Below is a list of sources to
investigate when looking for reputable
breeders.
*
Breeders Directory
*
Internet
*
National Breed Clubs
* Dog-Related
* Magazines
*
Veterinarians
* Dog Shows
*
Dog Trainers
These sources do not guarantee that a
breeder is reputable, but you can find breeders in your area with
which to start your search. Reputable breeders make sure that their
breeding stock is as healthy as possible and will be unlikely to
pass on to its puppies genetic disorders or poor temperaments.
Animal Shelters and Rescue
Groups
Careful selection of a puppy/dog will be
necessary if purchasing a puppy/dog from an animal shelter or rescue
group. Locate and read information about the selection of shelter
dogs written by Sue Sternberg, or subscribe to The Whole Dog
Journal (www.whole-dog-journal.com) and read, in the July 2001 issue, “How to
Pick a Winner” written by Pat Miller. These sources will educate
you as to the things to look for when interacting with a dog/puppy
that you are considering for adoption from either type of
organization.
In many cases the family tree and the
initial care and handling of a puppy/dog turned over to the animal
shelter or rescue group will be unknown. There are financial and
emotional risks associated with these unknowns. You may not know
what the puppy/dog will really be like until you have had it in your
home for a period of time. However, in some cases, a
great deal of information is known about a puppy/dog, which can be
helpful. Conscientious staff should make you aware of whatever they
know about a puppy/dog that is up for adoption.
Newspaper Ads
Both reputable and not so reputable breeders
will use newspaper ads to sell their puppies and dogs. It will be
your job to decide who is who. More information pertaining to this
subject will be covered under “How to Pick Out Your Puppy”, which
will be discussed later in the article.
Where Not to Get
Your Puppy
Puppy Mill Breeders
These breeders advertise on the Internet and
in newspapers/magazines.
They typically have large numbers of litters each year and
often times own more than one or two breeds of dogs. Remember to ask
how many litters a breeder has in a year. Numerous litters within a
year’s time may indicate a quantity versus quality attitude by the
breeder.
Breeding dogs to minimize genetic disease,
health problems, and poor temperament in the resulting puppies
requires a great deal of knowledge, financial investment, and
effort. Puppy mill
breeders are more interested in the number of puppies they can
produce and sell. They spend little money in terms of the studying
and testing of their own breeding stock for problems or even on the
housing and caring of their breeding stock.
The goal of a puppy mill breeder is to wean
and sell the puppies as fast as they can produce them, often turning
the pups over to buyers at a very young age. Obtaining a puppy from a
breeder before the eighth or tenth week of age denies that puppy the
time to experience and learn from living with its siblings and older
adult male and female dogs.
Puppies can learn appropriate behaviors and body language
associated with dog-to-dog interactions as well as bite inhibition
by spending time with and playing with their littermates and other
adult dogs at an early age.
Pet
Stores
Most pet store puppies are obtained from
breeders who need to move what they consider less than acceptable
puppies for their own goals or who are more interested in quantity
than quality. Puppy mills are frequently the source of pet store
puppies. Even though
these puppies are guaranteed and come with health statements, you
are taking a great risk with your pocketbook and your family’s
emotional attachment to a puppy is at stake. Often times your money will
not be refunded if a puppy has to be returned to a pet store for
health or temperament issues. If a store manager allows a puppy to
be returned, usually you are asked to pick out another puppy from
their selection of available puppies.
Sometimes pet store puppies are difficult to
housetrain. Usually these puppies are urinating and having bowel
movements in the cages they are confined in. Because they have not
been taught otherwise or allowed to experience anything else, they
believe that it is OK to go to the bathroom wherever they find
themselves, even where they sleep. They have not developed the
desirable habit of going to the bathroom outside.
Backyard Breeders
These breeders have one or an occasional
litter of puppies. Often times they neglect to make themselves
knowledgeable of the diseases and health problems that plague dogs
today. You need to make sure that this type of breeder is truly
conscientious and did not breed their dog just so they could keep a
puppy or because they thought it would be good for the female dog to
have a litter of pups before they had her spayed. These breeders
often times have the good intentions of bringing two nice family
dogs together to produce nice puppies that will grow up to be
wonderful pets. However, they may have no idea of the money that
needs to be spent or the tests done to insure healthy breeding
stock.
How to Pick Out Your Puppy
Find the names of several
breeders.
Visit their homes or breeding facilities
announced and unannounced at least once.
Here is a checklist of things to consider
before picking out your puppy/dog.
1)
Does this breeder breed
dogs for conformation shows, as pets or for other activities such as
field trials or other dog sports? These goals will have a
direct relationship to energy levels and temperaments of the
puppies these breeders produce. If you are looking for a pet you may
not want a dog with a conformation show temperament that requires a
bold “look at me” attitude, or a puppy with a field trial or dog
sports energy level.
2)
Ask to see current
litters of puppies if possible. What condition do they appear to be
in? (Are the puppies clean, active and healthy looking? If visible, do the puppies’
feces look normal or do the puppies have diarrhea? Is there an explanation for
the diarrhea? Have the
puppies recently been given medication for parasites common to
puppies? Have the
puppies recently experienced a change in
diet?)
3)
Ask to see the female
and male dogs that they use for the breeding stock, especially the
parents and grandparents of a litter you are interested in. Often times the male dog, father
of the litter, may not be on the premises. However, if the breeder is
reluctant or does not have a good reason not to have you see the
female dog, mother of the litter, find another breeder to work
with.
4)
Take note of the
cleanliness of the area the puppies are kept in the home or the
facility.
5)
Ask where litters of
puppies are housed for the first 8 weeks of their life. (Example, in
the kitchen or in the basement.) Puppies that are isolated
have not been exposed to beneficial stimuli including sights,
sounds, smells and touch.
6)
Has the litter been
allowed to urinate and defecate outside on a regular basis each day
in an effort to teach the habit of relieving themselves outside
rather than inside the house/facility?
7)
Have the puppies been
separated and housed in their own crates so that they have
become accustomed to spending time alone, as well as sleeping alone
at night? This behavior
will make your pup’s transition to sleeping in your home, without
its warm littermates next to him/her, much easier. Puppies that have learned to
enjoy several periods of time each day in their crates, by
themselves, adjust readily to crate usage in their new
homes.
8)
Note if there are toys
available for the puppies to play with.
9)
Ask if the puppies have
been exposed to more of the world than their pen or enclosure area.
This is important for pups older than 6 weeks of age so they can
practice essential investigative behavior. (Example: outside,
another room of the house, a neighbor's house, a field) Appropriate,
safe investigative behavior builds confidence in young
puppies.
10) Does the breeder expose the puppies to well
behaved children during the first 8 weeks? Does the breeder instruct
your children in terms of how to appropriately introduce themselves
to the puppies and handle the puppies? Puppies should be given the
freedom to approach children or adults. Children and adults should
not approach or chase a puppy in order to grab it and interact with
it.
11) Ask about diseases and temperament problems
that you know are specific to that breed of dog. (What has the
breeder done in terms of preventing these
problems?)
12) Ask about vaccinations, fecal checks and
worming procedures.
(Have these been done and by whom?)
13) Ask about the breeder’s contract of sale and
the return policy. (Do they guarantee their pups? For what? Until
what age?)
14) Ask about AKC registration papers and the
breeder’s policy about turning those papers over to you after you
purchase the puppy. It
is not uncommon for a pet owner to receive the registration papers
for the puppy after it has been neutered or
spayed.
15) Ask for the names of five families that
already own this breeder’s puppies. Call these people up and ask
them about their satisfaction with the dog they purchased from the
breeder. (How did the dog act as a puppy? Ask to see the dog if
possible.)
16) Ask for the name of the veterinarian that
they use the most often. Veterinary records are
confidential, but at least you will know that the breeder does have
a relationship with and access to a veterinarian.
It is important that the breeder get to know
you also. They should be asking you numerous questions about your
family, your home and your expectations for your new puppy or dog.
If you have developed a good relationship with the breeder, it will
be easier for them to match you with the appropriate puppy out of a
litter. If you do not have that kind of relationship with a breeder,
move on to another breeder. Somewhere during this process you will
become more comfortable with one of these breeders over the others.
Be patient when looking for a puppy because this puppy will be with
you for many years.
Looking at a Litter of Pups or a Single
Pup
When
looking at a litter of puppies you will be able to pick out extremes
in terms of their personalities. You will only be able to do this if
you visit the litter numerous times. The sleepy puppy on the first
visit may be the wide-awake puppy on the next visit. The breeder
will be most familiar with the puppies’ personalities. The same is
true of a single puppy/dog at the animal shelter or with a rescue
group. The staff will know the puppy/dog the best. Remember, animal
shelter puppies/dogs are confined a great deal of time and their
energy level or lack of can mean different things. Observe any
litter/puppy/dog carefully realizing that how they are acting may be
no more than a reflection of its current confinement/home
situation.
Looking
at a litter of puppies you should avoid the shy puppy as well as the
assertive puppy unless you have specific knowledge about handling
such puppies. It will be important to match the puppy’s personality
to the makeup of your family. A family with children may want a
mellow puppy versus the most active puppy in the litter. Give great
consideration to how well your children will listen to you and
understand that they will not be able to wrestle and grab the puppy
or play chase games with the puppy. Puppies will see children as
littermates and will treat them so, biting and nipping in an
innocent effort to play. Pay careful attention to how
the puppies play with their littermates and you will have great
insight into how the pup will attempt to play with your
children.
If
you have specific activities in mind for your puppy, one personality
may be better suited to that activity than another. Therefore, it is
important to know the activities you intend to pursue before you
purchase a puppy. It will be disappointing to you if you later
decide to participate in a dog sport activity and your puppy does
not have the temperament to help you be successful. Learn about
different dog sports and mention the ones you find interesting to
the breeder or animal shelter or rescue group
staff.
Ask
to view the litter and then the single pup that interests you in a
room or other environment that is new to the puppies and pup. Look
for the puppy that will move off and freely investigate a strange
environment while making sure it always knows where you are. A puppy
that is unafraid to investigate new objects and yet is the first one
back to you when you call “puppy, puppy” or a puppy that frequently
returns to you and wants to be touched is a puppy you should give
great consideration to. Puppies that won’t leave your side in this
situation have not “picked” you, they are afraid. Those puppies, puppies that
dodge your hand and do not want to be petted after they come up to
you and puppies that stay as far from humans as they can get should
be avoided.
If
you do not find the puppy you are looking for in a particular
litter, walk away. Unless you have researched a breeder and the
puppies they produce thoroughly, it is not recommended that you get
on a waiting list and accept any puppy the breeder wants to sell to
you, especially sight unseen. Do not buy a puppy just
because you have waited so long or the children are demanding their
puppy today. In reality, it will be your puppy, not your children’s.
This puppy must be compatible with you and your family because 12 to
15 years, maybe longer, is a long time to live with a dog you do not
like living with.
The
first two years will hold the most challenges for you as the puppy
grows, develops and matures. You will be in charge of its training.
The pet this puppy grows up to be will be a direct result of its
genetic background, the way it was raised from birth to the date you
take the puppy home and the effort you put into teaching the puppy
what is expected of him/her.
What if you pick the
wrong puppy/dog for your family?
A
puppy/dog needs to be placed in a home that is appropriate for
it. It is the
responsibility of all breeders and shelter staff to find that place
for their puppies/dogs. They should be happy and
willing to take a puppy/dog back, if matching you and your family
with a particular puppy did not work out as planned.
There
are many unknowns involved when choosing a puppy or dog. You can only do your best in
picking a puppy/dog suitable to join your family. Conscientious
breeders and shelter staff, your research and your litter/pup/dog
observations can help a great deal in this effort. However, if you
find yourself in the unenviable position of having brought a
puppy/dog into your home that does not work out for your family,
then you should return the puppy/dog as soon as possible.
Well worth
the wait!!!
It
is your responsibility to not take lightly the act of bringing a
puppy/dog into your home. Do your homework in an
attempt to find the right dog for you and your family. Understand
what bringing a puppy/dog into your home truly entails. Educate yourself and your
family about what it means to live with a puppy or a dog. Commit to training classes
that teach the puppy/dog, in a positive way, the habits you want
your puppy/dog to exhibit. Enjoy
the journey to many happy and endearing years with your canine
companion.
To learn more about Dr. Linda Arndt, click
here.
Published November
2003 |