|

September
2003
The THIRD WAY'S
Goals for Good Guidance - Goal
Number Four
By Chris Bach
and The Third Way – The Next Generation in Reinforcement
Training
Last month Chris discussed the second and
third fundamental goals of being a good guide. This month Chris is
breaking down the fourth goal into three very important
pro-active precautions.
Goal Number Four: Guidance Requires That You Take
Three Pro-Active Precautions.
You want to be
“proactive” in your relationship with your dog rather than
“reactive”. This will allow you to guide him effectively and always
maintain your safety history. Being pro-active means you will never
find yourself in an emergency or critical situation that could
require you to scare or hurt your dog to prevent further damage or
injury to him. Instead you will have his environment set up to
protect him from harm. And you will keep your household safe from
the ravages of a dog acting like a dog!
To accomplish
this end, three pro-active precautions are suggested:
1)
Keep your dog’s environment SAFE at all times through proper
MANAGEMENT.
2)
Maintain the ability to STOP inappropriate behavior whenever
they may occur.
3)
Maintain the ability to PREVENT the REPETITION of an
inappropriate behavior so that it cannot become a bad habit. (Refer
to June
2003 Training Tips for the Paws-A-Tive Pooch
for more information on the power of habits.)
Precaution Number One – Keep Your Dog’s Environment
Safe
It is your
responsibility to keep your dog’s environment safe and to establish
and maintain your “safety history” with him. Expecting your dog to
“trust” you puts the responsibility for a proper relationship on
him. He cannot take this responsibility. No animal is ever capable
of entrusting their safety and well being to another once they are
capable of taking action for their own protection. Your striving to
establish and maintain a safety history puts the responsibility for
a proper relationship where it belongs, which is on YOU! THIRD WAY
trainers do not expect their dogs to “trust” them. Instead they take
responsibility to form and keep a perfect lifetime safety history
between themselves and their dogs.
To begin, let’s talk
about puppies. When your puppy is out of confinement, he must be
supervised AT ALL TIMES. He should also be sporting a “floor cord”
at all times except when confined and unsupervised. To prevent
injury, the puppy is NEVER crated or confined with a floor cord
still attached. (A floor cord is a piece of cord that is attached to
his collar and drags on the floor as he moves about. This cord
allows the guide to GET TO the puppy and to STOP him immediately
when necessary without having to grab him or scare him.) The floor
cord assures that the puppy can be stopped without comprising his
safety history with you or with other people.
As a good guide you
will always confine the puppy when you are unable to give him your
undivided attention. Nobody would give a two-year-old child the run
of the house unsupervised. Dogs and puppies can get into as much
danger and mischief as a toddler can! When the puppy is not
confined, you must be supervising his every move to prevent
disaster. Electrical cords are an example of things the puppy can
discover while you aren’t watching that could change his life
forever. And wastebaskets are things the puppy could discover
that will change how you have to handle your garbage
forever!
Pick up things and/or
close closet doors so the puppy cannot chew or consume things that
could be harmful. Some puppies are prone to eat things that will
surprise their owners such as plastic and fabrics! Don’t discover
this little secret by having to react to the puppy’s consumption of
a dangerous substance that could cause a digestive upset or
blockage. Be proactive and keep things that he can chew up and
swallow out of reach. Watch him closely to see what types of things
he prefers to chew on so you can proactively control what goes into
his little mouth.
When you take the pup
outdoors he must be fenced in or toting a “floor cord” at all times
until you have taught him to come reliably when called. Never take
this for granted. Coming when called is a skill that a dog must be
taught and proofed step by step to assure a reliable response.
As a youngster the
puppy will probably have a tendency to be very responsive to you and
may give you the false impression that he knows how to “come when
called”. But if something very enticing shows up unexpectedly the
puppy could run off and get hurt or lost. Also when the pup reaches
fifteen or sixteen weeks old and naturally becomes more attracted
and stimulated by the environment than you, the “come” response is
guaranteed to digress. Being prepared to be able to stop the puppy
when necessary will assure that he remains safe out of doors. You
will also be able to get him when you need him and continue to make
forward progress in your efforts to teach him to come when
called.
Good guides establish
and maintain a safety history with their dogs by doing everything
possible to make their puppy’s environment safe and to promote the
appropriate responses that prevent harmful situations and
experiences.
(c) THE THIRD WAY ~ Chris Bach ~ 2002 -
2003. All rights reserved. |